Fiber & Flock
Pulling back the curtain on our textile industry, we are met with a vast and complex web of farmers and artisans, scientists and designers, economists and environmentalists. There is a vague, collective understanding among consumers that there are concerns throughout the apparel industry. And there are myriad echos of the call for visibility, support and policy change among shepherds and pastoralists, Indigenous communities and organizational allies.
Continuing our country’s cotton tale
Cotton has had a lengthy and complex history in our country. Its story has been evolving significantly over recent decades, and is now being told with more intention and illustrated in greater depth and color. Tune into chats among producers, industry experts and others to hear about what is happening, challenging and promising throughout the world of cotton.
Scroll along for featured profiles, articles and podcast episodes for a glimpse into all aspects of this fiber’s journey, from regenerative practices to sociohistorical representation.
Regenerating the Earth while Regenerating the Lives of People of Color
– Sheryl Karas M.A. (Cal. State Univ. Chico, Center for Regenerative Agriculture and Resilient Systems)
“The history of black and brown people in farming in this country isn’t a pretty one. Slavery, low-paid migrant workers, sharecropping (often called slavery by another name), and a history of extreme discrimination in regards to land ownership have made it difficult for people of color to embrace a career in farming. […]
But today this is starting to change. Not only are some black and brown community leaders advocating for the creation of community gardens in the U.S. inner cities and more black-ownership of farms on the periphery of urban areas, people of color in many places around the world are in the forefront of embracing regenerative agriculture to help their communities survive in the face of soil depletion and climate change.” Tap to read on.
A Partnership Between Target And Black-Owned Family Farms Brings Sustainable Cotton Products To Consumers
– Steven Savage (Forbes; February, 2023)
“[..] The national retailer’s partnership with Black-owned farms is a part of a larger commitment to source $2 billion worth of products from Black-owned businesses by 2025. Like many environmentally and socially conscious corporations, Target has an enterprise-wide corporate responsibility strategy. Theirs is called “Target Forward.” This pilot program to buy cotton from Black farmers delivers on the Target Forward strategy by expanding diversity within Target’s supply chain. It also supports farmers who employ sustainable growing practices – something that aligns with Target’s environmental goals.” Tap to read on.
Indian Farms Continue Link To Cotton
– Brent Murphree Maricopa, Ariz. (CottonFarming.com; August, 2013)
“Traditionally, cotton has been used by Native Americans in the desert Southwest for food and fiber for thousands of years. […] Today, five tribes have large farming operations with cotton land in California, Nevada and Arizona. Those farms each grow at least 2,000 acres of cotton using many advanced technologies, including GPS systems and yield monitoring.” Tap to read on.
Black farmer looks to rethink stigma of picking cotton
– Steve Osunsami, Brianti Downing, Osej Serratos, and Ivan Pereira (ABC News; February, 2024)
“Old images of African Americans picking cotton remind many of the oppression suffered by generations of Black slaves before the Emancipation Proclamation. For Black Americans in particular, their history with this famous crop, that helps clothe the world, is complicated.
Now Julius Tillery, a Black cotton farmer in North Carolina, is working to turn cotton’s painful story with Black Americans into an affirmation of the economic progress that his community has achieved over the years.” […] Tap to read on.
Sally Fox, Colored Cotton Breeder
(March, 2024)
“In a period when agriculture moved toward chemicals, genetic engineering, and monoculture, Sally Fox decided to explore what could happen if she collaborated with nature instead of fighting it. With an academic background in entomology, she studied ways to minimize the amount of pesticides needed to grow crops, and the more she saw the effects of those chemicals, the more she wanted to steer clear. Looking to avoid synthetic dyes, she was intrigued when she came across a few seeds of naturally colored brown cotton, which is naturally pest-resistant.”
How to measure cotton’s environmental impact
(November, 2023)
In the second of this three-part podcast series: ‘Threaded Together – How best to measure cotton’s environmental impact’ host Philip Berman talks to Dr Jesse Daystar from Cotton Incorporated and Joel Mertens from the Sustainable Apparel Coalition about the challenges of measuring sustainability in the cotton industry and how using life cycle assessments (LCA) can drive real change. They enjoy a wide-ranging discussion covering issues such as the effectiveness of LCA tools and how to bridge the apparent gap between LCAs, the relevant tools and the role of nuance and interpretation.
Black Cotton with Julius Tillery
(August, 2023)
Join us in an exploration of cotton’s journey from field to fashion as Julius Tillery engages in a thought-provoking conversation with host Colah B Tawkin. Julius touches on the intricacy of innovation, challenges, and cultural significance woven into cotton cultivation. Tillery’s insights shed light on Black ownership, inheritance in farming, and the creative use of cotton in decorative arrangements. Delve into the truth about cotton’s declining presence in American fields and its connection to economic shifts.
Embracing sustainability in the apparel industry with Liza Schillo, Corporate Sustainability Leader
(June, 2023)
“For Ms. Schillo, industry metrics, transparency, and a commitment to the future underscore industry efforts to embrace sustainable business practices. This is an important, wide-ranging discussion with a leading sustainability expert and advocate.”
E12: U.S. sustainable agriculture is a family affair
(August, 2023)
“We catch up with Marshall and Mead Hardwick, fourth-generation soybean and cotton farmers from Newellton, northeast Louisiana. We interviewed the brothers and their dad for our launch episode, so it was a pleasure to catch up with them and hear about their regenerative cotton partnership with a top fashion brand.”Tune in now for sustainability insights from two families on the frontline of Louisiana agriculture.”
Finding New Life and New Uses for Old Cotton
(November, 2023)
What happens to old denim when it wears out? A lot, in fact – especially when given new life through the Blue Jeans Go Green program. In keeping with America Recycles Day, Andrea Samber with Cotton Incorporated joins the podcast to share the details about the program’s success and future.
Improving your on-farm sustainability
(May, 2023)
“In this episode of Cotton Yarns we chat to Ian Moss from Farm Agronomy & Resource Management. Ian and I discuss how he is helping cotton growers improve the sustainability of their enterprises and what lies in the future for sustainable cotton management.”
Organizational Support & Initiatives
There are stirrings to trace along every branch of the fiber network. From environmental sustainability incentives and grant funding for small-scale producers, to values-aligned companies for consumers to support. Opportunities for historically marginalized groups, to advocacy for animal welfare. Promoting biodiversity and soil health by way of fiber animals and fiber plants. And fiber artisans seeking the most local, ethical and aesthetically unique materials they can get their hands on, all while seeking a deeper connection with the hands and lands that cultivated them.
The Fibers Roadmap: Integrated Capital Opportunities to Support Revitalization of U.S.-Grown Fiber, Textiles, and Leather
“Funders, impact investors, and integrated capital practitioners currently have the opportunity to catalyze momentum and reform in the U.S. fiber and textile industry. A coordinated, strategic roadmap is critical to make the best use of integrated philanthropic and investment support.This research project drew on more than 60 interviews with fiber farmers and ranchers; processing businesses along the supply chain (mills, tanneries, etc.); brands and other supply chain experts; and funders and investors.” Tap to access the free PDF roadmap.
Project team: Sarah Kelley, Jenny O’Connor, and Calla Rose Ostrander (Sustainable Agriculture & Food Systems Funders)
the Fibershed
Fibershed, in a nutshell, is a growing network of fiber farmers, processors, spinners, designers, small businesses, artisans and advocates sharing resources and support to build community and encourage circular practices throughout the textile industry. Officially kicked off by founder Rebecca Burgess, her organization and book, Fibershed: Growing a Movement of Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Makers for a New Textile Economy, the network has indeed developed into a movement replete with local and international chapters with their respective missions.
Scroll below to see what’s happening throughout the fiber movement in the U.S., or connect with the fibershed nearest to you. Websites, contact and handles linked below for quick access. The Fibershed is a warm and welcoming community, ever evolving and open to all.
| Region | Snapshot | Contact |
|---|---|---|
| Acadiana Fibershed (LA) | Preserving the Acadian Brown Cotton (ABC) heirloom seed; Revitalizing local ABC cotton production with farmers committed to regenerative practices; Creating a traceable supply chain for a sustainable fashion industry in Acadiana. | acadianbrowncotton@gmail.com @acadianbrowncotton |
| Blue Ridge Mountains Fibershed (GA, NC, TN, SC) | Volunteer-led non-profit network of 500+ fiber artists, farmers, small-scale fiber processors, educators & enthusiasts dedicated to growing the fiber economy; increasing awareness of/access to regional production & artisan practices. | chairman@localcloth.org |
| Central Appalachia Fibershed (KY, MD, OH, PA, WV, VA) | Farmers, processors, manufacturers, designers, retailers, advocates, educators, students promoting a regionalized textile & apparel supply chain. Flourishing economically while advocating for environmental stewardship & positive social impact. | Beth Shorrock, cafibershed@gmail.com |
| Chesapeake Fibershed (DE, MD, PA, WV, VA) | Encouraging community building and seeks to expand the connections between the producers of fiber and those who use and wear it. | Chesapeakefibershed@gmail.com @chesapeakefibershed |
| Coastal South Carolina Fibershed | Creating awareness of SC’s unique textile history & activities to students and residents. Documenting past & current contributors to share knowledge and promote a local textile industry in our coastal region. | Melissa Clark, mclark2@coastal.edu |
| Connecticut Fibershed | Growers, farmers and artisans with a strong belief in growing a local and sustainable farm to fashion network. Local Fibers • Local Dyes • Local Labor | Alisa Mierzejewski, alisamierzejewski@gmail.com ctfibershed@gmail.com @ctfibershed |
| Fiberhouse Collective (NC) | Facilitating public programming; conducting research at the intersection of biological design, social justice & farming – exploring handcraft from farm to fabric & from soil to soil. Creating cloth that heals. | Nica Rabinowitz, hello@fiberhousecollective.com @fiberhousecollective |
| Fibershed Heartland (IL, WI) | Stimulating a networking “fiberculture” of producers and users of local regenerative fibers & textiles, emphasizing the economic, environmental and community benefits of these connections. | info@heartlandthreads.org |
| Great Basin Fibershed (NV) | Utilizing natural botanical & animal resources present in our desert environment. Focusing on hemp for textile use, community engagement & awareness about regional fiber economies in the Desert West. | Darla & Sara Garey-Sage, greatbasinfibershed@gmail.com @greatbasinfibershed |
| Greater Cumberland Fibershed (KY, TN) | Uplifting the fiber culture of Kentucky & Tennessee with access to resources, funding & opportunities for makers, producers. Honoring a shared fiber history; developing new supply chains for future generations. | Hannah Howard, Robin Verson info@gcfibershed.org @gcfibershed |
| High Desert Fibershed (UT) | Fiber artists, farmers & textile businesses with a passion for regenerative textile practices and growing a local & sustainable farm to closet system. | Rachael Lauritzen, SegoLilyTextiles@gmail.com |
| Inland Empire Fibershed (CA) | FiberArtistMarket.com | Mary Hurley, finefleeces@aol.com |
| Kaw Point Fibershed (KS, MO) | A Fibershed Affiliate encompassing the 150 mile radius around Kaw Point, Kansas City, Missouri. | Jamie Root, fibershedatkawpoint@gmail.com @kawpointfibershed |
| Maine Fibershed | Sharing time-honored skills & techniques from textile creation, raising & shearing fiber animals, growing fiber mills, enriching soils & sequestering carbon, and local plant dyeing. | Melissa Anne Majkut, Patricia Harpell melissa.majkut2015@gmail.com @mainefibershed |
| Miami Valley Fibershed / Dayton Fibershed Collective (OH) | Connecting local fiber farmers, dye producers & textile artisans in the Miami Valley to share fiber resources, skills and knowledge. | Keba Hitzeman, miamivalleyfibershed@gmail.com @miamivalleyfibershed |
| Michigan Fibershed | Uniting land stewards, fiber farmers, dyers, spinners, weavers, designers, textile wearers. Recognizing intersections of sustainability, colonization, climate crisis, agriculture, textile & fashion systems. | Melissa Duhaime, Maggie Halpern michigan.fibershed@gmail.com @woven.mi.fiber |
| Mountains & Plains Fibershed (CO) | Encouraging use of natural fibers & regenerative agriculture. Fostering collaboration among textile artists, teachers, designers, fiber farmers, processing mills, suppliers & businesses. | Baily Rose, Erin Miller Mountainsandplainsfibershed@gmail.com @mountainsandplainsfibershed |
| New Mexico Fibershed | Implementing regenerative agriculture, rebuilding regional manufacturing, providing workforce training & vocational education, and connecting end-users to a network of fiber sources. | Koa Kalish, newmexicofibershed@gmail.com @newmexicofibershed |
| NJ Fibershed | Building a network of fiber farmers raising small flocks of sheep, alpaca, goats & others in New Jersey to promote face-to-face relationships among animals, farmers & fiber artists within our community. | Anne Choi, njfibershed@gmail.com |
| New York Fibershed & New York Textile Lab | Uniting regional land stewards engaged in cultivating fiber & natural dyes with their city counterparts in urban farming, community gardening, artistic creation, sustainable design & eco-activism. | nytextilelab@gmail.com kristin@kristinparker.com rebecca.dillenberger@gmail.com |
| North Dakota Fibershed | Providing a rural, inclusive, farm to needle experience that educates and inspires future makers, artists and growers. | Teresa Perleberg, teresa@nomeschoolhouse.com |
| Northern & Central California Fibershed | Expanding opportunities to implement climate benefitting agriculture, rebuilding regional manufacturing & connecting end-users to the source of our fiber through education. | hello@fibershed.org @fibershed_ |
| Northern New England Fibershed (VT, NH, ME) | Supporting individuals & businesses to bring fiber from raw material to finished product. Promoting regenerative farming rooted in traditional Indigenous knowledge to nourish the soil and protect the land. | info.nnefibershed@gmail.com @nne.fibershed |
| Ozark Fibershed (AR, MO, OK, KS) | Building networks of local knowledge & production and striving to build systems that are mutually beneficial to all members of our fiber community. | Abby Hollis, Lindi Phillips abbychollis@gmail.com @ozarkfibershed |
| Pennsylvania Fibershed | Working to map out our local textile supply chain with the goal in mind to unite & re-establish our local textile economy. | Rachel Higgins, Leslie Davidson rachel@pafibershed.org leslie@pafibershed.org |
| Piedmont Fibershed (NC) | Developing a regional fiber economy around local fibers, local dyes & local labor that benefits the environment, workers & the local economy. | Courtney Lockemer, info@piedmontfibershed.org @piedmontfibershed |
| Rust Belt Fibershed (MI, NY, OH, PA) | Linking farmers, processors (large mills to home spinners), weavers, dyers, artists, shop owners, consumers. Fostering a greater respect for our environment, as well as an understanding of the impact we share in our corner of the world. | Jessalyn Boeke, Sarah Pottle rustbeltfibershed@gmail.com @rustbeltfibershed |
| Southeast Fibershed (AL, FL, GA, LA, MS, NC, SC, TN) | Uniting people, collecting stories and aggregating data on sustainable fiber, clothing, textiles & manufacturing in the region. | Natalie Chanin, Olivia Terenzio think@projectthreadways.org |
| Southeast New England Fibershed (MA, RI) | Connecting the dots of the supply chain to bring production back to reinvigorate a once-thriving New England textile industry. | Amy DuFault, amytropolis@gmail.com @SENewEnglandFibershed |
| Southeast Ohio Fibershed | Developing a sustainable textile economy that brings value to the work of our farmers, makers, and regional communities. | Lisa Heinz, seohiofibershed@gmail.com @seohiofibershed |
| Southern California Fibershed | Encouraging community building & connections between textile artists, designers, fiber farmers, processing mills, suppliers, and retail businesses. | Lesley Roberts, hello@socalfibershed.org @socalfibershed |
| Southern Indiana Fibershed | Connecting regional fiber producers, fiber enthusiasts and all those in between. | Lindsey Higgins, soinfibershed@gmail.com @southernindianafibershed |
| Surprise Valley Fibershed/ Warner Mountain Weavers (CA, NV, OR) | Supporting local artists & sheep ranchers with a market for fleeces/wool products in hopes that those who make a life & living in the sheep industry remain a vital part of the Western landscape and economy. | Bonnie Chase, warnermtnweavers@gmail.com @deepcreekyarns |
| Texas Fibershed | Creating & supporting the infrastructure for locally grown textiles in Texas. Working toward the collective impact of restoring our connection to the land we call home. | texasfibershed@gmail.com @txfibershed |
| Three Rivers Fibershed (MN) | Developing regional fiber systems that build soil health and protect the wellbeing of our biosphere in Minnesota. | threeriversfibershed@gmail.com @threeriversfibershed |
| Western Massachusetts Fibershed (MA, VT) | Supporting the creation of locally-sourced sustainable clothing & textiles. Working together to grow and make our own clothes from our regional Fibershed. | westernmassfibershed@gmail.com @westernmassfibershed |
| Western Slope of Colorado | Increasing local awareness for fiber processing projects, support for growers, makers & designers alike for an accessible marketplace serving our community in a regenerative manner. | wsfibershed@gmail.com |
Extra hooves,
Extra hands:
Training & Technical Assistance
Coming soon: curated tutorials, literature and fact sheets from a range of sources providing free information and insights for fiber farmers, dye plant gardeners, spinners and enthusiasts across the board.
Hoofprints & History:
The Year of the Camelid
Coming soon: stories, resources and initiatives surrounding the preservation- and incorporation of pastoralism by aligning local efforts with a growing worldwide movement.
In the meantime, this review of Ilse Kohler-Röllefson’s Hoofprints on the Land: How Traditional Herding and Grazing Can Restore the Soil and Bring Animal Agriculture Back in Balance with the Earth offers a thorough introduction and overview of the importance of recognizing traditional knowledge for the benefits of our shared land, its people and their herds.
Plant Fiber:
Reinforcing the States/Turtle Island
Coming soon: Discussion, histories, resources & initiatives celebrating the spectrum of fiber-producing plants native to- or cultivated in the United States/Turtle Island* and those interacting with them as sustainable textiles, culturally relevant materials and biodiverse alternatives.
*Historical and current connections with Indigenous peoples and the native plants that are part of their lives will also be highlighted here; Turtle Island is the name upheld by some when referencing the land colonized as North & Central America, or in some cases the Earth as a whole.
Bothered Earth 